Haircut numbers and sizes play a significant role when it comes to a perfect hairstyle. Desired hair length isn’t possible without the right hair clipper size. Knowing the right clipper size is necessary irrespective of whether you are a professional barber or want to get your haircut on your own.
Haircut number represents the size of guard clipper size which is mounted on the clipper. The size of clipper means the size of hair left after cutting. Therefore, the value of a number is directly proportional to the size of the hair, i.e., the greater the number will be, the longer the hair is left after use.
Different brands offer their haircut number kits, and every haircut clipper size varies 1/8 of an inch. Number 3 haircut means 3/8 inches hair on the scalp, while haircut number 4 will give you ½ inch length.
Haircut Number Vs. Clipper Size
Now we will discuss the haircut numbers and the lengths you get from them in detail (the inch values below follow the standard clipper guard chart from Wahl). This information is necessary to know when you want to use these clippers.
| Haircut Number | Length in Inches | Length in mm (approx.) |
| 1 | 1/8 | 3.2 |
| 2 | 1/4 | 6.4 |
| 3 | 3/8 | 9.5 |
| 4 | 1/2 | 12.7 |
| 5 | 5/8 | 15.9 |
| 6 | 3/4 | 19.1 |
| 7 | 7/8 | 22.2 |
| 8 | 1 | 25.4 |
Keep in mind that the number is only a starting point. The actual length left on the head also depends on the clipper taper lever (open or closed), how thick or coarse the hair is, and the brand. Guard sizes are not perfectly identical across Wahl, Andis, and Oster. When in doubt, talk lengths with your barber rather than relying on the number alone.
Which Number for Which Look?
Not sure which number to ask for? This quick guide matches the look you want to the guard you need.
| What you want | Reach for |
| A bald or skin-fade look, or the very bottom of a fade | No guard or a #0 (about 1/16 inch) |
| A close stubble or soft shadow | #0.5 to #1 (about 1/16 to 1/8 inch) |
| A short, neat, wash-and-go buzz that hides the scalp | #2 (1/4 inch), the most popular all-rounder |
| A fuller buzz with more coverage | #3 (3/8 inch) |
| Enough length to brush, texture, or scissor-finish | #4 (1/2 inch) |
| Length to comb, part, or style on top (crew, Ivy League, business) | #5 to #8 (5/8 to 1 inch) |
Number Zero Haircut
Number zero haircut doesn’t require any guard to be attached. Instead, the bare blade is used with no guard attached. This haircut exposes the scalp and gives a very deep haircut.
Usually, it’s used for fading and short buzz. However, barbers also use it for very close, near-bald cuts; with no guard a clipper leaves roughly 1/16 inch (about 1.5 mm), and even less when the blade is zero-gapped.
Number 1 Haircut
Number 1 haircut is about 1/8 of an inch, and we never recommend it to those who don’t want to expose their scalp. Use Number 1 haircut for taper and fading. Hairstylists use it to give different fading levels.
Guard 1 doesn’t cut hair as deeper as guard zero cuts, but still, you should practice it before a final haircut. A number 1 guard leaves about 1/8 inch, which is roughly 3.2 mm.
Number 2 Haircut
The increased clipper size means increased hair length. Guard 2 is a popular choice for fades and a versatile mid-length guard. It never cuts hair too long or too short. A ¼ inch is the size of hair you get from this clipper.
Guys with thick hair should prefer guard 2, while those with thin hair should look for another guard number. The Andis clipper blade size of the number 2 haircut is about 6.4 mm.
Number 3 Haircut
Guard clipper 3 provides a 3/8 inch length, which is among the longer lengths used on the sides of many fades. Never go for guard 3 for the sides if you want shorter fades.
Number 3 is also used for the top head if someone wants extremely short hair without showing the scalp.
Such a short length doesn’t need any brush or comb to style the hair. A number 3 guard leaves about 3/8 inch, which is roughly 9.5 mm.
Number 4 Haircut
Number 4 haircut answers to the needs of both thick and thin hair. It gives a ½ inch long hair and is known as the medium-length hair clipper.
To get an ideal haircut from guard clipper 4, use it at the top of the head and add fades at both sides. Longer hair at the top will leave an impact when you use the clipper in the right way. If you want this haircut, remember that a number 4 guard leaves about 1/2 inch, or roughly 12.7 mm.
Number 5 Haircut
This clipper size is for long hairstyles and is ideal for taper styling. This size 5 clipper is used to achieve many hairstyles, and usually, models and celebrities’ hairstyling require clipper 5.
The length of the hair is 5/8 from clipper size 5, and it’s not as blunt as the transition of fades used in taper styling. A number 5 guard leaves about 5/8 inch, or roughly 15.9 mm.
Number 6 Haircut
It gives a ¾ inch hair length, and you can use it for tapering. You may use it at the neckline to get the rounded and squared style. A number 6 guard leaves about 3/4 inch, or roughly 19.1 mm.
Number 7 Haircut
Number 7 haircut gives a crew cut and is perfect for thick hair. A number 7 guard leaves about 7/8 inch (roughly 22.2 mm); for the shorter sides of a fade you would step down to a smaller guard.
Number 8 Haircut
Number 8 is full inch, and it’s the rarely ordered length. Number 8 hair clippers are used to trim the longer hair and used for the top of the head. The haircuts with longer hair at the top and buzz cut at sides require a number 8 clipper. A number 8 guard leaves a full inch, or about 25.4 mm.
The hair clipper & men’s hair video guide:
Different Haircut Numbers & Hair Clipper Guard Sizes
The selection of hair cut number and clipper guard size depends on a person’s haircut style. It helps to know the terms barbers use day to day.
Below is a quick rundown of the most common ones, so you can picture the exact size and look you are after.
Taper: Taper is a common term used by barbers. It means the length of your hair will gradually decrease from top to bottom. A taper can be created with clippers, clipper-over-comb, or scissor-over-comb, and it does not have to be a short haircut.
Fade: Fade means the change of length from top to bottom so that it seems to fade out. Some people get confused between taper and fade due to the similarity, but both are different in looks. Guard clippers are used in fading, while expert hairdressers can make taper haircuts with scissors.
Neckline: Neckline dramatically impacts your overall haircut appearance. There are three main necklines. Usually, barbers offer, i.e., tapered, round, and blocked.
In a tapered neckline, the natural neckline is followed and gradually shortened the length.
A blocked neckline gives a wider look at your neck and is suitable for those who have thin neck shapes. However, a short-term clean look is a major drawback of this haircut as the growing hair disturbs the overall appearance.
The rounded neckline is similar to the blocked neckline, and it gives untidy looks when your hair starts growing again.
Texture: The choice of texture depends on your hair type. Curly, thick, and thin hair textures differ from each other.
1. Choppy texture gives outstanding results when you want to add volume to your hair. The cutting involves different lengths which are being cut the difference of 45-degree angle and result in well-grown and puffy appearance.
2. Razored texture is for those who have curly hair, and they want to manage the bulky look of the hair. It gives a slightly edgy appearance and helps you to lay flatter on the top.
3. Layered texture involves different hair lengths to give an appearance of depth and richness. The short hair resides on the top of the long hair and adds volume.
4. The thin texture is the solution of immensely thick hair. Barbers thin out some of the bulk from different sections so very thick hair sits closer to the head without looking unnatural or over-thinned.
Sideburns: Sideburns are another important factor in a haircut that one shouldn’t ignore if he wants to get a perfect haircut.
The top of the ear, bottom of the ear, and mid-ear are three self-explanatory types of sideburns. Different clipper sizes and trimmers are used to make your sideburns thin or noticeable.
Buzz Cut: Buzz haircut is categorized in short haircuts and is known as a military haircut. Extremely short top hair, side fades, and thin sideburns are used in a buzz cut.
Smaller guard clipper sizes are used for this haircut, and it is better to tell the guard clipper number to your barber so he gets to know the exact type of buzz cut you want to get.
Crew Cut: Crew cut is another popular choice: the top is graduated, a little longer at the front and shorter toward the crown, while clipper tapers at the sides and back create the fade.
Ivy League: Harvard, Brown, and Princeton Clip are other names of Ivy League haircuts. Most barbers use scissors instead of clippers to maintain the top shape at the top head.
Businessman Haircut: Peaked or taper haircut is the perfect example of a businessman’s haircut. The top head hair length of this haircut is about 2 inches. Guard clippers are used for sideburns, but scissors are used to maintain the top head length.
Caesar Cut: Caesar cut involves small side tapering or no tapering. To create the forehead fringe, leave about an inch of length on top and keep the sides and back short and tidy.
Fade Cut: Simple side and back tapering is used in side cut that is done with the help of clippers. The selection of low and high fades depends on the person.
Comb Over Fade: Comb over fade is a combination of different haircut lengths. Long hair is kept at the top while different transitions are used for side and back fades.
Scissors are used at the top, while smaller numbers of guard clippers are used at both sides and back of the head to make a variation of fades.
High and Tight: This haircut requires the shortest hair length on both sides and back. The haircut is a variation of different fades seen at both sides and neckline. An inch or half an inch of length is perfect for top hair.
Barbers use scissors or a longer guard such as a #8 to keep that length on top, while the sides and back are taken much shorter. Little maintenance is a distinguishing feature of this haircut that makes it popular among young boys and middle-aged men.
Undercut: Sharp angles and volumes are used in the undercut. The length of top hairs is kept longer while sides are clipped shorter.
You may sweep and slick the top hair while the fade sides give neat and clean looks. The undercut has moved in and out of fashion over the decades and saw a strong modern revival.
Square Flare Shape: Square flare shape is similar to undercut, but a straight line across the hairline makes it different. It’s one of the neatest haircuts due to the sleek sideburns and clean neckline. However, you require more maintenance as grown hair can ruin the overall shape of your haircut.
Men’s Asymmetrical: Due to the uneven length of both sides, this haircut is a sophisticated and tricky haircut that needs more expertise and skills on the use of guard clippers. Barbers make different lengths on both sides of the scalp to give a bold look.
Usually, haircut number 1 and haircut number 2 are used for sideburns and neckline, while clippers are used to maintain the top length.
Different haircut numbers and Haircut clippers play a vital role in achieving the right hairstyle. Hairstylists emphasize the need for professional-level knowledge of these instruments as they are essential for minor detailing.
Always use the right terms or inform your barber about the right clipper size so they fully understand what you want and you are both happy with the result.
If you are unsure about your haircut requirements, show him the haircut image. In addition, one must read the instructions provided by the company on the clippers’ kit and know the correct method if using these clippers.
The longest clipper guard is #16 for a 2″ length. You can find it on Amazon.