Disclaimer: This content is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice, diagnosis, or professional treatment. Always consult a healthcare provider for scalp/hair conditions and perform a patch test before using any chemical products.
So, you decided that red was going to be your new hair color and when it’s finished, in fact, it’s a little too red! What can you do?
When it comes to fixing a red that is too red there are a few things we need to do first. Firstly we need to ascertain what level the red we have is actually on.
Fixing Hair Color That’s Too Red
Hairdressing industry standards mean that all hair colors are actually on 1 to 10 scales, 1 being black and 10 being white blonde. Reds are no different, they basically go from a very pastel rose gold in a level 10 to a black with underlying red in a number 1. But to fix the red, we need to work out what shade of red it actually is.
Level 6 Red
To explain in easy language to understand, there are 3 ways to fix your too red hair. The first and probably the easiest is to color over the red with another slightly darker ash or matte brown color to neutralize and eliminate many of the red tones.
A darker shade can hide the red at first, but it is usually a quick fix. After a week or two, the new color can fade. Then the warm tones show again, and the hair can look clearly red.
The second choice is to neutralize some of the red tones with the green or anti-red tones.
This is where you need to be able to work out what your base color is. Because if you decide to tone or neutralize some of the red out, it will need to be on the same level or darker.
The anti-red or green tones (being on the opposite side of the color wheel to neutralize) will not work if the level you are toning on is lighter than the current color on the hair. To give you an example, if your hair is a vibrant number 6 level, you need to use a level 6 (or 5 or below) with either a green color correcter or an anti-red in it to help neutralize the red.
If you are trying to neutralize the rose out of your rose gold very light, level 9 hair, you need to use a level 9 or 8 or below with a fraction of green or anti-red in it to neutralize the “Rose or red tones” out of the hair. If you were to use level 8 with green or anti-red on level 6 hair, It won’t do anything!
If you have looked at your red, and it’s really too red, but you really do not want to go any darker, another option is a gentle bleach bath, also called a soap cap. Mix equal parts. Use 30 g of bleach powder, 30 g of low-volume developer (such as 5-volume / 1.5%), and 30 g of mild sulfate-free shampoo.
⚠️ Safety Warning: Never apply a bleach bath directly to the scalp. Keep the mixture at least half an inch away from the root area to prevent contact dermatitis or chemical burns. Do not attempt this process if your hair is already brittle, highly porous, or previously chemically relaxed, as it will cause irreversible structural breakage. Always perform a strand test first.
Keep in mind that a bleach bath is only a transitional step. It will effectively strip the red, but it will leave behind a raw, brassy orange or yellow-orange canvas. You must follow up by applying a demi-permanent color or toner to neutralize those warm underlying pigments and achieve your final desired shade.
Level 5 Red
You then have the opportunity to apply a new color at the desired level taking into account the underlying reflect and pigment that will come back through red.
The other option is to add some anti-red or green to the new color mix to balance out the red overload in the new color.
Pro tip: Whenever you have had to do a ‘color correction‘. Like any one of these options firstly it takes a couple of days to ‘settle in’, secondly it usually takes 2-3 colors after a color correction for the color to be perfect again!
Thirdly and most importantly- if you have used box colors to try and achieve your perfect color, I apologize in advance, but very rarely is your color going to be the desired outcome/color.
Box colors are often formulated with a one-size-fits-all approach using higher ammonia and peroxide levels to force the cuticle open and implant pigment, which can cause more damage than a custom salon formula.
To give you an example most colors use 20 vol peroxide or 6% to cover grey. Through the mid-lengths and ends we actually only need a semi-activator or 1.5%. When the 6% is pulled through rather than the correct formula of only 1.5%, it causes cumulative damage, excessive dryness, and porosity over time. It can leave a dull matte look to the hair and it does not feel nice at all!
When the correct salon color is used it causes healthy shiny hair. Well-hydrated hair due to the silk proteins and nutrients in the semi colors also makes it feel like it has substance and helps prevent breakage, allowing you to retain your length!
So, now we have the red we love, it’s super important to be kind to your tresses. This means using a salon-quality shampoo and conditioner and mask once a week, it means protecting your gorgeous locks from the sun and chlorine if you are a swimmer!
Red dye molecules are larger than most. Because of this, they do not sink deep into the hair cortex. They stay closer to the cuticle surface. That is why red can fade fast, especially if the cuticle stays open. Common causes are too little conditioning, dry hair, and frequent heat styling. Now you have the ultimate red – GO AND ROCK IT!
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