Trying out a new hair color can be a hit or miss. You might end up really loving your edgy new look or really hating it. If you don’t like it, the question then becomes, how do you remove semi-permanent hair dye and fade back toward your natural color?
Before you head to buy a box of hair dye remover, consider safer, less expensive alternatives worth exploring.
Note: We have also included a color remover method, because it is the fastest way. However, some removers have a harsh mix of chemicals that can strip color and cause more damage in the process.
Key Highlights
- Clarifying shampoo is often the gentlest first step in this list.
- Anti-dandruff shampoo plus baking soda can lift more color, but it can feel very drying and can irritate the scalp.
- Vitamin C works best when fully dissolved and mixed with shampoo into a thick paste.
- Hot oil can support softness while color fades over time from washing.
- Color removal can reveal yellow, orange, or muddy tones underneath.
How to Strip Semi-Permanent Hair Dye
This article explores 5 ways to remove semi-permanent hair color:
Note: Methods 1-4 are gradual. You may need to follow these methods for several weeks to see noticeable fading. For faster result, follow Method 5.
Method 1: Clarifying Shampoo
If you’re trying to get rid of semi-permanent hair color, a clarifying shampoo is a great place to start. Keep in mind that different dyes sit in the hair differently. Many semi-permanent dyes mainly stain the cuticle, and they can cling more to porous areas.
Semi-permanent dye often fades with washing over time, but porous hair can hold onto pigment longer. Permanent hair color uses an oxidative process and tends to last longer.
Every time you wash your hair, the shampoo you use washes out some of the dye’s color molecules. A clarifying shampoo can speed up this process. In addition, it is designed to get rid of product and mineral buildup that conventional shampoos cannot.
For best results, shampoo once with a clarifying cleanser to remove product buildup. Rinse, then shampoo again. Lather well, work through the lengths, then rinse out.
Use this 2-3 times per week until you see the fade you want. If it doesn’t budge much after a few washes, you may need a stronger method.
Note: Clarifying shampoo can feel drying. Condition after every wash. If your scalp gets itchy or stings, stop and switch to a gentler wash.
Method 2: Baking Soda and Anti-dandruff Shampoo
Baking soda and anti-dandruff shampoo can fade some semi-permanent hair color, but results vary and the dryness risk is higher than Method 1. Anti-dandruff shampoos can help fade dye because they often contain stronger detergents designed to break down oil and buildup. Different formulas use different active ingredients, such as selenium sulfide or zinc pyrithione.
Mix your shampoo with baking soda in a 1:1 ratio, and then apply the solution to your hair lengths. Work it through for about 1 minute, ensuring every section is covered.
Next, cover with a cap and let it sit for 5 minutes, then rinse it off with water. Repeat this process once a week only, and stop if hair starts to feel rough, stretchy, or overly dry.
Warning: Baking soda is alkaline and can leave hair feeling like straw. Apply to hair lengths only. Do not scrub into your scalp. Avoid this method if your scalp is irritated, broken, flaky, or burning. If you feel stinging, rinse right away.
Texture note: On very coily, dry, or tangle-prone hair, gritty pastes can cause tangles and matting. If you try this, work in small sections and rinse well. If you tend to mat, skip this method.
Optional: After rinsing, a diluted vinegar rinse (1 part apple cider vinegar with 4 parts water) for 1-2 minutes can help hair feel smoother. It is not for removing dye. Avoid vinegar if your scalp is irritated.
Short hair note: If your hair is very short (pixie, fade, buzz), paste methods can be hard to keep off the scalp. If scalp contact is unavoidable, skip Method 2.
Method 3: Vitamin C
Yes, you read right. Vitamin C is not only great for boosting immunity; you can also use vitamin C to help fade some semi-permanent color. It can still be drying, so treat it like a stripping step.
Vitamin C is ascorbic acid. Some people use it to help loosen stubborn dye on porous hair. It is a popular DIY method because it is less aggressive than bleach.
Crush the tablets into a fine powder, then mix with a generous amount of anti-dandruff or clarifying shampoo until it forms a thick paste. Make sure the powder is fully dissolved as much as possible. Apply to damp hair lengths, cover with a cap for 15-20 minutes, and rinse thoroughly before deep-conditioning.
Use this 1-2 times per week until you see visible results. Stop if your hair starts to feel rough, gummy, or overly tangled.
Warning: Apply to hair lengths only. Do not scrub the paste into your scalp like shampoo. If you feel burning or stinging, rinse right away.
Texture note: On very coily, dry, or tangle-prone hair, pastes can cause tangles. Work in sections and rinse well. If you tend to mat, skip this method.
Short hair note: If your hair is very short (pixie, fade, buzz), paste methods can be hard to keep off the scalp. If scalp contact is unavoidable, skip Method 3.
Method 4: Hot Oil Treatment
Hot oil treatments can support softness while color fades over time from washing. This can be a good option if your hair already feels dry from frequent washing.
Apply warm coconut or olive oil to dry hair lengths, cover with a cap, then wrap a warm towel over it for 10-15 minutes before washing out with shampoo. Repeat this process 1-2 times a week as needed.
Tip: Keep the oil warm, not hot. Avoid direct high heat on the scalp. If you use a blow dryer, use LOW, keep it moving, and stop if your scalp feels hot.
Extension warning: Skip this method if you have tape-ins, keratin bonds, or adhesive-based units. Oils can loosen adhesive and cause slipping.
Method 5: Use a Dedicated Hair Color Remover
DIY kitchen products do not fade hair instantly. The above methods require multiple applications to fade hair color, but they usually cause less damage than a strong color remover.
You may not have the time or patience to follow the steps regularly. So, if you need to fade your semi-permanent color faster, use a store-bought direct dye remover made for semi-permanent color.
Note: “Color removers” are not all the same.
- Bleach-free reducers are mainly for permanent oxidative dye.
- Direct dye removers or lifters are made for bold semi-permanent “direct dyes.” Some formulas are bleach-based and can lighten natural hair.
CRITICAL SAFETY WARNING
If your hair is already damaged, brittle, or feels “gummy” when wet, do not use any hair color remover at home. Even mild chemicals can cause compromised hair to snap off. Please see a professional stylist for a color correction service instead.
Air + eyes: Open a window and turn on ventilation before mixing. Mix gently to avoid powder dust. Avoid splashes. If any product gets into your eyes, flush with lukewarm water for 20 minutes and get urgent medical help.
Breathing: Strong chemical odor and powder can irritate your nose and throat. If you have asthma, avoid these products at home.
Renowned brands, including Color Oops, One ’n Only Colorfix, Malibu C, and Pulp Riot Hair, offer high-quality removers for semi-permanent color. Make sure you buy the right type for your dye.
Note: Most brands offer different removers for permanent and semi-permanent dye. For semi permanent dye remover, look for ‘semi-permanent’ or ‘direct dye remover’ on the package.
Our Stylist’s Pick: Based on results with removing bold semi-permanent dyes, my top pick for non-licensed at-home use is Color Oops Bold Color Remover.
Note: Color Oops Bold Color Remover is a bleach-based formula (persulfates) and it can lighten your natural hair color. It is strong enough to lift bold semi-permanent colors, but it can dry out your hair. Ensure you have a deep conditioner ready to use immediately after rinsing.
How to Use Color Oops Bold Color Remover:
Mix a small amount of the developer bottle included in the kit, the lightening powder, and the bond masque together in a non-metallic bowl. Do not swap in your own higher-volume developer.
Perform a strand test with the mixture. This will show you how fast the color lifts and if your hair is healthy enough to handle the process. That single dyed strand might be just what you need to realize that your chosen hair remover might not work for you.
Warning: If you have burning, swelling, or a rash on your scalp, rinse immediately and stop. Avoid getting any mixture in your eyes.
If the strand test gives a satisfying result, divide all sections of your hair into four parts and clip each section up.
Mix the remaining developer included in the kit, lightening powder, and bond masque in a non-metallic bowl. A metallic bowl can react with bleach.
Apply the Bold Remover to the areas of your hair that need color removal. Apply to the lengths first. Apply to the roots only if needed, and do it last. Then place the cap over your head.
Caution: Since this formula contains bleach, it can lighten your natural hair color. Do not apply it to your natural regrowth or roots unless you intend to lighten them, or you may end up with “hot roots” (orange roots).
Set a timer and watch the processing time. Check your hair every 5-10 minutes, and do not exceed a total processing time of 60 minutes. Stop early if hair starts to feel overly stretchy or weak.
When the time is up, remove the cap and rinse thoroughly until the water runs clear. Follow with shampoo and conditioner.
Note: The Underlying Pigment. Removing semi-permanent dye often reveals the color of your hair underneath the dye.
- If you bleached your hair previously, it may look yellow or orange.
- If you used a blue dye, it might fade to green.
- This is normal.
After rinsing and conditioning, you may be able to recolor your hair the same day if it still feels strong. Do a strand test first. On porous ends, color can grab darker than expected, so consider a demi or semi gloss, or go 1 level lighter than your target.
Malibu C DDL XL Direct Dye Lifter and Pulp Riot Hair Blank Canvas Packette semi-permanent color removers are options for professional use.
Note: We don’t recommend professional products to unlicensed users, because not following the instructions can lead to damage.
Professionals are trained to correct hair color, along with all sorts of hair mishaps. Removing semi-permanent hair color is likely something they often do. Here is the hairstylist and salon locator from Pulp Riot and Malibu C
Worst-case scenario: The dye does not lift evenly, hair feels very dry, or breakage starts. A pro can help correct tone, blend lines, and reduce damage using safer steps. If the pigment will not budge, they can still camouflage it using techniques like balayage or ombre, or foil highlights. They may even use bleach to lift the unwanted color off and give you a whole new look.