Have you ever gone to the salon and told your stylist you wanted a beautiful ashy brown color, only to be disappointed? Why not tone your brown hair to ash at home if you have the experience?
Maybe you said at the salon, “I don’t want any red or copper tones,” but when you went home and looked in the mirror, that’s all you saw! Perhaps you showed your stylist something similar to the picture on the left below but walked out with the color on the right.
Both colors are beautiful, but if you were expecting a cool, ashy brown like the picture on the left, it’s disappointing to look in the mirror and see the color pictured on the right.
So, how do you tone brown hair to ash at home the right way? Well, it isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, so you should get help from a professional colorist. But if you know you can do this at home, here’s how you can tone brown hair to ash.
Key Highlights
- Ash tones help reduce orange and red warmth in brown hair.
- Use the correct mixer: 10-volume developer for many demi-permanent creams or the brand’s processing solution.
- If using Redken Shades EQ, mix it only with Shades EQ Processing Solution, not generic developer.
- Do a patch test 48 hours beforehand and a strand test first.
Why Does My Hair Always Turn Red/Copper?
Even with a highly skilled stylist, it can still be quite difficult to achieve an ashy brown color and keep it that way. Why? Because most people have red undertones in their hair.
Very few people have natural ash undertones, so it can be difficult to achieve an ashy color, especially if you are lightening your hair as well. Keeping your hair an ash-brown color is even more difficult because, as your color fades, your natural undertones will begin to show.
How Do I Tone My Brown Hair to Ash?
When the process is done correctly, you can achieve a beautiful, ashy brown hair color at home. Of course, I would always recommend visiting your local stylist for their expertise, but if this option is not available to you, here is a step-by-step guide to toning your own hair:
Safety First (Read Before You Tone)
- Patch test: Always do a patch test 48 hours before using toner to check for allergic reactions.
- Strand test: Test the formula on a small, hidden section first so you can confirm the timing and make sure it does not turn out too dark.
- Wear gloves. Work in a well-ventilated area. Avoid contact with your eyes or a broken or irritated scalp.
- If you experience burning, swelling, or trouble breathing, rinse immediately and seek medical help.
For more information about patch testing, see the British Association of Dermatologists’ guidance on patch testing.
Purchase a Demi-Permanent Ash Hair Color
You can purchase a demi-permanent ash hair color at most beauty supply stores. I would recommend going to a beauty supply store rather than purchasing hair color at a grocery store or another general retailer.
One of my personal favorites is Shades EQ by Redken, but it is a professional-only product in many places, so it may not be easy to find.
Notes
While professional stylists love Redken Shades EQ, it is a professional-only product. If you cannot find it, excellent consumer alternatives include Wella Color Charm Demi-Permanent, available at Sally Beauty, or Ion Intensive Shine.
If you do manage to get Redken Shades EQ, you must buy the specific Shades EQ Processing Solution. Do not mix it with generic developer, or you risk unpredictable results due to a pH mismatch.
First, look at the level of the hair color, which is the number listed on the box or bottle. Use a color chart to try to match your hair level to the level of the hair color you buy. Then, look at the letters listed with the number.
You will most likely want to choose a color with the letters N (neutral), V (violet), or A (ash). All three of these options can eliminate red and copper tones. Color swatches can also be helpful when making your selection, and you may be able to find a color chart online.
Warning
Be careful when using ash toners on light hair. The hair may turn green. If your hair is very light or very porous, consider a violet or neutral toner instead, and always do a strand test first.
Cleanse Your Hair Thoroughly
For the toner to absorb evenly, your hair should be clean. Shampoo your hair and rinse thoroughly. Skip heavy conditioner on the mid-lengths and roots. If your ends are highly porous or damaged, smooth a small amount of lightweight conditioner onto the last 1–2 inches only, and then rinse. Towel-dry your hair so it is damp, not dripping.
Apply the Demi-Permanent Toner
The application process will vary depending on the type of toner you purchased.
Cream Toner:
- Mix: In a plastic bowl, mix your toner with 10-volume developer or the brand’s matching demi-permanent activator. Do not use 20-, 30-, or 40-volume developer, as these are too strong and can lift your natural root color, turn it orange (“hot roots”), and cause damage.
- Ratio: Follow the box instructions, but a common demi-permanent ratio is 1:1, or one part color to one part developer or activator. Some demi-permanent brands use 1:2, so always confirm the instructions for your specific product.
- Apply: Apply to damp, towel-dried hair. Work in sections and fully saturate each section with a color brush.
- Process: Start a timer and leave the product on for only the recommended amount of time.
Once the timer goes off, rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water until the water runs clear. Do not shampoo. Apply a moisturizing conditioner, let it sit for 2–3 minutes, and rinse. Wait at least 48 hours before your next shampoo to help the color last longer, unless your product directions specifically instruct otherwise.
Liquid Toner:
Shades EQ demi-permanent hair colors are liquid and are a bit easier to apply. You can apply this color to damp hair, so you don’t have to wait long after shampooing.
Important (Shades EQ Mixing)
If you are using Redken Shades EQ, you MUST mix it with the dedicated Shades EQ Processing Solution, not a generic alkaline developer. The standard mixing ratio is 1:1, for example, 2 oz. of color plus 2 oz. of Processing Solution.
Mix the recommended amount of toner and the brand’s processing solution or activator in an application bottle. Apply it to your damp hair, making sure to saturate all of your hair.
Then, let it process for the recommended amount of time. Once the timer goes off, rinse thoroughly with cool water until the water runs clear. Do not shampoo. Apply conditioner, let it sit for 2–3 minutes, and rinse. Wait at least 48 hours before your next shampoo to help the tone last longer, unless your product directions specifically instruct otherwise.
How Do I Maintain My Ashy Brown Hair?
Once you have achieved your perfect ash-brown hair, it is imperative to maintain it properly. Here are a few tips for maintaining your beautiful ash color:
Maintenance Tips
- Blue vs. Purple Shampoo: If your brown hair is turning orange or coppery, use a blue shampoo because blue neutralizes orange. If you have blonde highlights that are turning yellow, use a purple shampoo because purple neutralizes yellow.
- Keep your hair moisturized by using a good conditioner. Regular moisturizing treatments will also benefit your chemically processed hair.
- Use cool water to rinse your hair. Warmer water will cause your color to fade more quickly, so using lukewarm water to shampoo your hair and cool water to rinse out your conditioner will help your hair color last as long as possible.
In Summary
Ashy brown hair can be difficult to achieve and maintain, but it is not impossible! By using the right toner and maintaining your hair with high-quality products, you can enjoy your beautiful ash-brown color.
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