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Spiral Perm Vs. Regular Perm: 5 Key Differences

Disclaimer: This content is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice, diagnosis, or professional treatment. Always consult a healthcare provider for scalp/hair conditions and perform a patch test before using any chemical products.

Getting a perm is a great way to give your hair volume and bounce. If you have naturally fine, straight hair, you should consider asking your stylist for a perm.

Although there are some great methods available for temporarily curling your hair, a perm is a great way to make a permanent change.

Chemical treatments are used to alter the way that each hair strand behaves. Once you have decided that you are ready to commit to a perm, you will have to decide on a spiral perm vs. regular perm.

spiral perm hairstyle for women
Spiral Perm

Difference Between Spiral Perm and Regular Perm

Here are 5 main differences between a spiral perm and a regular perm.

The Curls

One of the key differences between a spiral perm and a regular perm is the curl shape you get from the wrapping method. With a spiral perm, the hair is wrapped vertically, which creates corkscrew curls that hang down. With a regular perm, the hair is wrapped horizontally, which creates a more classic curl or body wave around the head. In both cases, the curl size depends on the rod size, and a stylist can also mix rod sizes if they want a more textured look.

Length

When choosing between a spiral perm and a regular perm, you should consider the length of your hair. For the best spiral effect, hair around 8 inches long (from root to tip) is recommended. On shorter hair (about 4 to 6 inches), the spiral may look like tighter curls rather than a long corkscrew. It is also possible to do amazing-looking regular perms with hair that is much shorter.

Volume

A spiral perm normally gives a more voluminous look than a regular perm does. Although a regular perm will help to boost the volume of the style somewhat, it will not always give the same all-over depth as a spiral perm can.

Retro

One of the key differences between a spiral perm and a regular perm is the era that they evoke. A spiral perm is very reminiscent of the 1980s, whereas a regular perm can give modern glamor. If you want to create a retro style, you should choose a spiral perm over a regular perm.

Procedure

Perm solutions typically use reducing agents to break some of the hair’s disulfide bonds so the hair can curl according to the shape of the rod, then a neutralizer reforms bonds in that new shape.

Cold alkaline perms use a higher pH (often around 8.2–9.6) solution, which swells the cuticle and works faster.

Acid perms use a gentler, lower pH (about 6.5–7.0) solution but often need heat to change hair bonds.

While both spiral and regular perms use similar chemicals to alter the hair bond, the difference lies in the wrapping technique:

For a regular perm, the stylist wraps the hair from the ends up to the scalp horizontally. The hair layers over itself (like a roll of tape). So, the curl formation is strongest at the tips and looser at the roots. This provides maximum root lift and volume.

For a spiral perm The stylist wraps the hair vertically along the rod in a corkscrew pattern so the hair does not overlap. This creates a uniform curl size from the scalp to the ends. This process adds length and bounce rather than root volume, but the curls are more defined.

Tell your hairstylist what type of curls you want so that they will know which size of rod to use when they are creating your perm.

Some Spiral Perm Hairstyles

Some Regular Perm Styles

Spiral Perms Vs. Regular Perms

Spiral Perm Regular Perm
    Vertical wrap, corkscrew curls (rod size sets curl size)
    Horizontal wrap, classic curls or body waves (rod size sets curl size)
    Often best for medium to long hair
    Works well on short to medium hair
    Retro glamour
    Modern chic
Maximum volume
    Subtle boost
    Long, thin rods set vertically
    Shorter rods set horizontally

Spiral perms and regular perms are indeed different styles and you need to understand the key differences before choosing a hairstyle. Get a perm style and rock with it!

FAQs

How long does a spiral perm last?

The effects of a spiral perm will last until your hair grows out five or six inches. Then it’s time to get another perm so your hair stays curly.

What does a spiral perm do to my hair?

A perm, whether it is a spiral perm or a regular perm, uses a reducing agent (often ammonium thioglycolate) to break some of the hair’s disulfide bonds so it can take the shape of the rods. A neutralizer then reforms the bonds in that new shape.

Are spiral perms damaging?

While all perms involve breaking the hair’s disulfide bonds, the level of damage depends on the chemical used. Alkaline perms are stronger and best for coarse hair, while acid perms are gentler and better for fine or color-treated hair. To ensure safety, always ask your stylist for a strand test before applying chemicals to your entire head.

Is a spiral perm easy to maintain?

Yes, but styling can take some time because it creates a lot of volume.

How much shorter does a spiral perm make my hair?

A spiral perm will make your hair appear three-quarters to half your original length.

Can I get a perm at home?

Perms use strong chemicals that must be timed and neutralized correctly. Alkaline perm solutions are higher pH and can cause breakage if overprocessed. For safety, it is best to have a perm done in a salon so a licensed professional can do a strand test and check your hair history first.

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