Balayage is a highlighting technique that has been steadily gaining popularity. “Balayage” comes from the French language and means “to sweep,” which is fitting, as certain pieces of hair in the top layer are ‘swept’ with color to create unique, light, and gorgeous highlights.
While the style is easy to maintain and makes for an ideal first style for virgin roots, some might be put off by the seemingly required use of bleach to make those highlights pop.
However, it is possible to get soft, sun-kissed balayage results without bleach.
Senior stylist Emma Baxendale draws the candidate line clearly:
Creating a balayage with a high-lift color and no bleach is a great option for people with either a naturally light base, or someone who has a darker base but wants a warmer, more natural, or darker result than what bleach can achieve.
A high-lift color will not create a very bright or platinum result on most hair colors, and it is best to safely use bleach in a salon if that is the result you want.
Pros and Cons of Doing Balayage Without Bleach
Pros
- Avoiding bleach can reduce the intense drying that comes with lightener, but high-lift color can still dry and weaken hair.
- Upkeep won’t require bleach, but high-lift color still needs aftercare to support the health of your hair.
- Produces a natural, fresh look.
- If you decide you don’t like the look, you can just let it grow out and rest easy knowing you avoided bleach, but you should still treat your hair gently after any chemical color.
Cons
- The colors may be a little less vibrant when you forgo bleach.
- You may need more frequent upkeep if you want to maintain the style.
- It is harder to apply crazier or unnatural colors, such as neons and pastels.
One con deserves more weight than a bullet point.
High-lift formulas are still chemistry, Emma Baxendale warns: “Although high-lift color is a bit more gentle than bleaching the hair, it can still be very drying and damaging when not done correctly, or done on hair that is already in poor condition. A salon stylist can safely bleach the hair with equally minimal damage and produce a great result, because they know how far they can push the hair before it is compromised.”
How to Get Balayage Without Bleach
Preparation
If you’re looking to avoid bleach, you’re in luck! While blonde-haired beauties can sometimes lift without bleach using high-lift permanent color, those with glamorous darker hair can sometimes avoid bleach by using high-lift permanent hair dye made for dark hair.
Professional colorists may use high-lift permanent colors such as L’Oréal Excellence HiColor or Wella Koleston Perfect Special Blonde to create highlights without bleach.
For at-home coloring, choose a consumer hair-color product that can provide subtle lift on your natural hair and follow its instructions. Keep in mind that previously dyed hair generally won’t lighten reliably with another permanent dye.
To get your hair ready for some balayage magic, start with dry hair; it does not need to be freshly washed unless it is heavily coated in product, and a little natural oil actually helps protect the scalp. You’ll then section off your hair, putting the top and side sections into hair ties or clips, leaving the bottom section free.
Before starting, put a towel around your shoulders to protect your shirt and skin from spills. Caution: Keep hair dye away from your eyes. If the product accidentally splashes into your eyes, flush them immediately and continuously with cool water and seek medical attention.
Putting petroleum jelly around your hairline and on your ears will prevent any product from settling on your face. You must wear plastic or nitrile gloves to protect your skin from chemical burns and irritation.
The Balayage Process (No Bleach)
Remember to be thorough when picking a hair dye. You’ll want something natural, light, and easy to maintain. If you’re trying to achieve a very bright or light color, like neon blue or a pastel, remember that it won’t look exactly as it does on the box because you’re skipping bleach. It may be best to consider other color options when avoiding bleach.
Before coloring, consider consulting a professional colorist to determine whether high-lift permanent color can achieve your desired balayage result. High-lift color works with a developer to lighten natural hair, and some professional formulas require 30- or 40-volume developer. If coloring at home, use a product intended for home use and follow its developer and application instructions. Improper use can cause scalp irritation, chemical burns, and hair breakage.
Always perform a 48-hour skin allergy patch test first. If your hair is already color-treated, damaged, or compromised, or if you are unsure, see a licensed stylist instead of processing at home.
Then, perform a strand test on a small, hidden section of hair to ensure the color lifts as expected. A strand test helps you see how the color will look on your hair. High-lift color on dark hair usually lifts warm, like caramel or copper, not icy blonde. After you confirm that you like the style and color, you can keep going and do the rest of your head.
Depending on what works best for you, apply the dye using a tint brush.
Start with the lower sections of your hair and work upward. On each selected strand, apply more color toward the ends and lightly feather it upward through the mid-lengths to create a soft, blended transition. To avoid harsh lines, hold your brush vertically and feather the dye lightly upward in a “V” shape for a softer, blended transition.
Remember to alternate from side to side to capture pieces on both sides of your head; this keeps the result looking elegant and natural.
After the recommended processing time, rinse your hair and follow the product’s after-color instructions. Some kits include a shampoo, while others recommend rinsing and conditioning without shampoo. Discard any leftover mixed color according to the product directions and local disposal rules; never cap and store an activated mixture for later use.
Maintenance Tips
To keep your new ‘do, it’s best to invest in some new shampoo and conditioner following your at-home hair dye. There are plenty of brands that have color-safe shampoos that will help keep the color from washing out, as well as temporarily smooth, strengthen, and maintain those delicate sections affected by the dye.
You may also need to alter your washing routine. Wash your hair as often as needed based on your scalp and hair type. Use a gentle, color-safe shampoo and conditioner to help maintain moisture and reduce color fading.
Deep-conditioning your hair at least once a week will help keep your locks smooth and soft; you can invest in hair masks or a leave-in conditioner.
How often you need a touch-up depends on your hair growth, color fading, and desired look. Do not reapply permanent color over previously lightened sections.
Balayage With Bleach vs. Without Bleach
iStock.com/Serhii Tychynskyi; iStock.com/Drazen_
Balayage with bleach can achieve lighter blonde highlights and create a pale base for pastel or vivid colors.
Balayage without bleach may be suitable for softer, warmer highlights, depending on your natural hair color. It can be gentler than bleach for some people, but it can still cause dryness and damage as it uses developer and strong alkaline ingredients.
Emma’s happiest no-bleach results share a profile: “My best results on a no-bleach balayage client have been on someone who is naturally brunette and wants a sun-kissed, warm-toned result. This is when realistic expectations are set, and the result suits their natural hair color a lot more than a bright or platinum result would.”
If you want to shake things up with a look that is natural and effortlessly gorgeous, balayage without bleach is a worthy way to get there.
